Hué 

The scenery during the first hour of our journey included crazy evening traffic, close-ups of the interiors of shops and houses, plus a dog riding on the back of a motorbike. Taking the train already felt like a much better idea than travelling by bus or plane! Saturday night’s 20:10 from Hanoi to Hué felt much like being on a Russian train, except Vietnamese music played, the staff smiled and the carriages weren’t heated to an insufferable temperature.

After a very bumpy journey, which included an excellent beef noodle breakfast and less sleep than I had hoped for, our pre-booked driver met us at Hué train station and drove us to our hotel, where jasmine tea and fresh fruit awaited. After checking in and showering, we set off for a walk in the rain. We walked to the Perfume River, and crossed the bridge to Dong Ba Market. Outside, the market consisted mainly of food stalls, which I assume, based on the enormous quantities, supply local restaurants with meat and vegetables. Inside, there was a mix of spices, coffee, clothing and footwear. After a wander around the parks by the river and a look at the outside of the Imperial Citadel, we ate near the hotel, then headed back to Skype our families.

Monday started with breakfast in the hotel, before we joined the Hué City Tour (www.huecitytour.com). Had the weather not been so awful, we probably would have walked and cycled to several of the sites on the itinerary. Had we done that, we would have missed out on a very good tour.

The tour started with trips to the tomb of Emperor Minh Mang’s tomb and Emperor Khai Dinh’s tomb. Both sites were fascinating , and the tour guide provided excellent explanations of the life of each emperor. Next up was a trip to a Kung Fu show, which was impressive, yet a little disturbing. A trip to a village where the local people made conical hats and incense sticks didn’t add much to the tour, but at least I now know how an incense stick is made. Our final stop before lunch was at Emperor Tu Duc’s tomb. Of all of the sites we visited, I found this one the most impressive. Emperor Tu Duc spent quite some time living at the site before his death, meaning that the site had to be large enough to house his family, servants and concubines.

After lunch at the Hué City Tours building, we were taken to the Imperial Citadel. From the outside, it looks extremely impressive. Sadly, many of the buildings inside were destroyed during the French and American Wars. The buildings that remain are wonderful, and work is ongoing to rebuild the Citadel, but it’s hard to believe that the magnificence of this walled fortress will ever be restored. After the Citadel, we visited Thien Mu Pagoda, the oldest pagoda in Hué. It’s a very nice structure, but after seeing so much in one day, I don’t think anyone on the tour was paying it their full attention. A short boat ride along the Perfume River, back into town, was a pleasant end to an excellent day.

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